Lake Atitlán, Guatemala

I made it to Guatemala 🇬🇹! After my long day in El Salvador, I went directly from the airport to dine at Sublime in Guatemala City. It is currently ranked at #24 of Latin America’s Best Restaurants. Putting it lightly, the meal and experience were fantastic!

Sublime’s tasting menu takes you on a food tour around the country, which each dish representing a different region and highlighting different ingredients. I added the mocktail pairing. Above is one of the mocktails, presented in a wooden toy truck and one of the dishes that represented Rio Dulce and had rice, shrimp, coconut, grilled pineapple and beans. The way the flavors worked together in all of the dishes was really special. For me, the highlight was getting to have a conversation with the anthropologist who works with the chef to create the menu, research the areas, and construct the story of each dish. It was so inspiring, and she was so nice! If I were to put together a menu representing Indiana, what would be on it? What about if it were my family history in food?

I left satiated and also ready for bed with a full belly. When I woke up, I boarded a shuttle to take me to Lake Atitlán! A “quick” 5 hours later, I took a boat to my accommodation, which is the “famous” La Casa Del Mundo.

View from my room

This was my splurge of the trip, and I booked a private room. La Casa Del Mundo is built into the side of the mountain, right on the lake with beautiful scenery and architecture. There are a lot of steps though.

A view from the swimming area

It is a beautiful stay, there is no question. I do want to share a few cons briefly: it is not for solo travelers. I got really lonely there because I couldn’t find anyone to talk to. You can only get there by boat, and each ride will cost you around $4.50, which can add up quickly. The last boat of the day launches at 6:30pm, so essentially you have to eat dinner there every night, and breakfast is not included. Everything is extra- you want to use the hot tub? It’ll cost you about $100 for a private 1 hour. My advice, they have a day pass for Q$50, or stay for only 1 night. 🙂 Again, it is beautiful and feels like a castle, so check it out if you’re around!

San Juan

I spent a day wandering around a couple of the towns around the lake. I took a taxi boat to San Juan first, and hiked up the hill, stopping in some stores on the way. This is definitely where I could have bought so many souvenirs, if only there was room in my backpack! I did end up buying a hand woven shirt from a woman’s cooperative at the top of the hill, which I love. Also, look at those blue skies! I had to take advantage of it while I could.

It just so happens, I was in San Juan during the patron saints festival. I bought an ice cream in front of the church (one flavor- cream, and the red on top is caramel) and watched the parade of saints. You may be able to see by the picture, but the smell of incense in the air was heavy. It was a neat cultural experience that I didn’t know I was walking into.

(A minor note- loud fireworks and gunshot type sounds activate my anxiety pretty immediately. While people were enjoying the parade, there were loud firecrackers that went off about every 3 minutes. So after lunch I headed to my next town and was a little emotionally worn out.)

San Pedro was my next stop, and to get there I took a tuk tuk. (You can see them in a picture a few above- it is the red vehicle. It is essentially a motorbike with a shell on it that has 6 seats including the driver. Seats is a generous term.) I was flagging a tuk tuk down and one stopped to let me on… and from what I thought, it was full. There were 3 adults and 3 kids in the back, the driver, and another adult and child combo on the left side of him. Well he learned where I was going and said hop on! To which he folded down a tiny tiny seat right next to him. Well, I hopped on and got a whole half of one butt cheek on the seat. I was holding on to the roof of the tuk tuk for dear life as he was (slowly) careening to the next town. It was wild, but I made it in one piece.

San Pedro is where the artists are and there are workshops of all varieties you can participate in there. Want to paint with coffee? Want to learn to weave? It is maze like, but a neat little town.

I decided to get a 90 minute massage for like no money. I was a little lost tbh, but I wandered and saw the sign and thought- why yes, I could spend my day getting a massage. The massage itself was… oily, but relaxing. As soon as it was done, it started a downpour of rain. I, of course, forgot my rain gear because it was bright and shining with sun outside when I left! I waited it out a little bit, but eventually sucked it up and tried to make my way towards the docks to catch the public boat. I had to ask for directions multiple times because I kept getting lost and Google maps didn’t match with where I thought I needed to go. Eventually, I made it to the boat- cold and wet, but I made it!

Possibly my favorite Pic of me in Guatemala!

The next morning I moved to the Selina hostel in Panajachel, and it was absolutely marvelous. I love Selina’s and I don’t know why I didn’t stay in them more during this trip. I think I was trying to support less chains, but I was so happy with my stay. For only a little bit more I got a giant suite all to myself. It was cool.

In Panajachel, I walked around the stores, looked at the handicrafts, and also drank a Milkshake that changed my life in the best way. It was at The Little Spoon, and it’s called “chai magic.” It was so good, I went back again the next day.

Due to heavy rain and landslides, my bus to Antigua couldn’t leave at 12- they had to delay everyone to 4 pm to allow for enough time to clear the roads. This was a little bit of a bummer because I really wanted to get to Antigua and explore, but I made the most of the sunshine.

I went by tuk tuk to the Nature Reserve and walked around the butterfly house, took a trail to the lake and crossed suspension bridges, saw coati and monkehs being fed bananas- it was all very cool! I even saw a little waterfall. It was a nice way to spend a beautiful morning.

After a delayed start, the shared shuttle picked me up and I was off towards Antigua! Stay tuned…

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