seekingmygreaterperhaps

Oi gente, tudo bem?

I could really kick myself for not having gone to Chapada dos Veadeiros earlier in my time in Brasilia, because it is a magical place. About a 3 hour drive from Brasilia lies these two little towns tucked away in the chapada, home to hundreds of waterfalls. You know what I’ve learned about myself while living in Brazil? I love a good waterfall. Chapada is a bit finicky, and you don’t want to go during the rainy season because most of the roads to actually get to the waterfalls are super bumpy and almost all of them are just dirt. If you go during the rainy season, many of the waterfalls are closed and you can’t get to them, or you risk getting stuck. Now, this is uncharacteristic for me, but I did wait until the rainy season was over to actually go so I could enjoy it. I know! What a concept! But that meant I had to wait until my second semester, and I was running out of time. I ended up going twice, carving out time for a second visit before I moved, because I enjoyed it so much.

There are two main towns you can stay in when you visit- Alto Paraiso or Sao Jorge. I stayed in both, and both are lovely in their own right, but you aren’t really going to Chapada for the towns to visit. Alto Paraiso is a little bigger so it has more restaurants and a souvenir shop or two. Sao Jorge is smaller, but is closer to the bigger waterfalls and “must do’s” in Chapada. I stayed in a rental home on both occasions so I could kind of cook for myself, but more importantly, bring Kya with me. There are plenty to be found in both places. In Alto Paraiso, while laying on the hammock at the house I watched countless macaws flying overhead, trying and failing to capture just how cool it was. In Sao Jorge, I had an unobstructed view of the scenery and the Chapada and was able to watch one of the most gorgeous sunsets I’ve seen.

I’m going to structure this blog around the waterfalls, because that’s why you go to Chapada dos Veadeiros.

Papagaio

On the drive from Brasilia to Chapada, there is a small waterfall called “Papagaio” – about 30 minutes from the main highway. The reason to go? It’s dog friendly! I stopped here on both trips and Kya was a bundle of joy as she splashed around the waterfall and sniffed nature. It’s a super easy hike, as in you basically park right outside the waterfall and then you’re there. It’s a smaller waterfall, but still great for a swim and a picnic.

You may have noticed the pamonha- it was my main lunch snack the second trip, because I was smart enough to stop at Vo Belmira pamonharia on the way to Chapada. (There’s really only one route to get from Brasilia to this area, so when I say on the way… it’s there.) I recommend stopping for some great Goianian food, especially the pamonha. It’s a big pink house about halfway.

Nikaia

Not quite a waterfall, but definitely a recommendation worthy restaurant in Alto Paraiso, Nikaia is an authentic French restaurant that serves a 3 course meal. The owner and chef is French, fell in love, and moved to Brazil, and he serves incredible food.

You have to reserve ahead of time (everyone in Brazil uses WhatsApp: 62 981672506). I was lucky because it was literally next door to my rental house, so I walked. I still dream about that tomato. Anyways, 10/10.

Louqinhas

Located about 15 minutes from Alto Paraiso, Loquinhas is a trail of like 12 mini waterfalls and swimming spots. It is a pretty easy trail, and I’d say it’s family friendly.

There isn’t a “wow” giant waterfall, but there are many many wow swimming areas, AND I saw a little wild life.

Anjos e Arcanjos

Why, yes, this waterfall is angels and devils, and is touted as being dog friendly. Uh. This was a really difficult hike for my hiking dog. There were ladders involved and I had to carry her (she is 50 lbs, like 23kilos). Kya is pretty nimble, but I wouldn’t go there with her again. I’m pretty sure one of my friends who has a chihuahua warned me about this, and I was like- oh we will be fine. I was worried Kya had gotten injured on this hike, but everything was fine in the end. While it’s open to dogs, I wouldn’t say it’s dog friendly.

There was a moment when I had to lift Kya up to go up the ladder and Kya hates being held. She stick legged it and was like pushing outward away from the ladder and I was like… oh my goodness, this is where I die because Kya freaking pushed us off the ladder and we fell in the wilderness with no cell signal. But, we lived to tell the tale and did not fall. Good thing I am super strong and we are both badasses. (Duh)

Vale da Lua

A short drive from Sao Jorge, this “valley of the moon” lives up to it’s name. It really does look like you’re on another plant when you walk through this unique rock formation. Bonus! I got to swim there too.

You’ll notice the lady sitting in “reflection” right by the waterfall… this happens in Chapada. It’s definitely a hippie vibe and attracts all sorts, haha!

Segredo

It’s no “secret” that this is a beautiful waterfall. I went after I went to Vale da Lua, and I was actually a little worried that I wouldn’t make it in time, because when I checked in they were like- it’s a long hike and you need to turn around at… 3? (I can’t remember now). I am a slow hiker, but I hoofed it and made it just fine.

I really enjoyed the hike to this one, you get some beautiful views of the chapada (plateaus) AND the waterfall is GIANT! It’s hard to tell the scale in the photo, but it is really really tall. I swam around and loved the few pools on the way back too.

Bar Por do Sol

Located in Sao Jorge, this place is a can’t miss if you want a great sunset and a fun vibe. I brought Kya and we watched the sunset and listened to some great music two nights in a row.

I was lucky, and this bar was really near to my rental house. The roads to get there are typical for the region… full of potholes and not maintained. So we were happy to be close by.

Parque Nacional Chapada dos Veadeiros

Of course, I made it to the national park! I chose the red trail to Canion 2 and Cariocas and off I went on my hot hiking adventure. The trail was pretty easy, just long and through areas with little shade. But it was worth it when you make it to a beautiful gushing canyon and swimming hole. Then a short hike over to the waterfall for another dip.

The hiking trail itself was also beautiful, with many wildflowers to look at.

Mirante da Janela

This “viewpoint of the window” was the hardest hike I did in Chapada. I started early, and am so glad I did because it got really hot pretty fast. It was also difficult because your climax is a viewpoint, not a waterfall, and as a brasiliera, that is a weak reward. The hike itself requires a lot of rock scrambling and careful footing. At the end you are basically bouldering to get to the top. Then you get to the ladders and you get to the viewpoint. That being said, it was worth it!

This hike, while difficult, was rewarding, and was my farewell to Brazil. If I hadn’t been dehydrated, I would’ve been crying.

To wrap this blog post up, Chapada dos Veadeiros is my absolute jam. I was sad by how much I loved it, because it’s so closeby to Brasilia, I should have been going the entire 3 years I lived there. However, I am so glad I was able to soak up some of the magic that I did.

Beijos!